Non-comedogenic cosmetics are skin care products which have been tested
on the oily skins of human volunteers, or inside rabbit ears.
These products are less likely to cause blackheads (open comedones)
or whiteheads (closed comedones) in patients.
However, no single product is non-comedogenic
for everyone.
For example, a person with very oily skin may still get "skin
breakouts" from products that another person with mildly
oily skin may find non-comedogenic. A better term may be non-acnegenic
rather than non-comedogenic, but this is not so widely used.
It is important to test a new product
on your own skin rather than rely on the label, before using
it freely.
There are moisturizers labelled oil-free
which have a very thin consistency.
Examples of these are Nutraderm
and Colladerm. These have been tested in old animal models
and have been proven to be oil-free. Most people who are acne-prone
or who have oily skin do not even need these products.
There are moisturizers labelled
non-comedogenic which are usually thicker than the oil-free
products. These may be suitable when the ambient humidity
is dry. When the patient is exercising or if the air is hot
an humid, these moisturizers may be comedogenic.
There are some products, which are
suitable for oily skin. Most liquid cleansers are not as helpful
for oily skin as bar soaps or synthetic detergents. Some deodorant
soaps or cleansers may be helpful for oily skin. Care must
be taken not to over-dry the skin with a strong cleanser for
fear that the skin will re-bound with extra oil. Often a good
gentle face bar soap, (e.g. Neutrogena bar, Dove, OilofOlay)
gentle cleansers such as Cetaphil lotion, or Aquanil cleanser
will be more likely to allow for patient satisfaction.
When the patient actually has acne
and not just oily skin, many acne cleansers are available.
Neutrogena, Clinique, Medicis, Aveeno, and many other companies
have cleansers made specifically for acne. There are benzoyl
peroxide cleansers in the form of 5 and 10 % bar soaps and
liquid cleansers, which are very effective in controlling
acne breakouts.
Foundations for acne-prone skin are often formulated to be
like a shake lotion - the color contents settle on the bottom
while the opaque or clear solution is on the top. The bottle
is shaken before the foundation is applied. These are the
least elegant oil-free cosmetics. Most foundations remain
mixed together but are not heavy or thick. It is not necessary
to have poor coverage in foundations for oily or acne-prone
skin. Titanium dioxide is the ingredient which allows for
better coverage, and that ingredient is not oily. Varying
amounts of starch and kaolin will thicken up the products
without causing acne.
For patients who actually have
acne-prone skin, the addition of 1-2% salicylic acid may be
partially therapeutic. For patients who need a blotter for
the excess oil in their skin, extra amounts of starch, kaolin,
and polymers which absorb sebum may be added.
The active ingredients of sunscreens
(UVB blockers such as Cinnamates, Octocrylene, Salicylates),
and UVA blockers such as Benzophenones, Parsol 1789 (avobenzone),
micronized zinc or titanium dioxide, are not themselves comedogenic.
These ingredients can be incorporated into foundations, non-comedogenic
moisturizers, and oil-free bases. The least comedogenic sunscreens
are usually formulated into gel formulations. ( e.g. Presun
Ultra SPF 30 Gel, or Shade 30 Gel)
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